Best Of The Chilean Lakes

An overnight flight to Santiago where you’ll stay two nights at Noi Vitacura – a slick, contemporary hotel in the upmarket district of Vitacura. First stop in Santiago has got to be the fish market which will give you a great introduction to Chile’s famous array of sea food. After passing huge vats of weird and wonderful fish, you can tuck in to the freshest of razor clams and scallops at one of the market bistros.

It’s a direct flight from Santiago to the mystical island of Chiloé: the largest of the islands in the Chiloé archipelago. Here you’ll not only get your first hit of the Lake District’s stunning scenery, but the time-warp lifestyle and island lore that few other travellers have experienced. A cutting-edge twist on the stilted wooden houses that dot the island’s shoreline, your hotel for three nights (Refugia) has fantastic views of the glassy strait between the archipelago and mainland, and includes a different “outdoorsy” activity for each day you’re here. These can be as active or relaxed as you like, but a must-do is setting out in a traditional ‘Chilote’ vessel and navigating through the icy fjords with the captain. For something a little more cultural, just ask your expert guide about the island’s legendary folk-hero, Trauco (a troll-like Lothario figure, he is said to rampage through the forests, and entice all women he encounters (!) Then there are the wooden-slatted colonial houses to check out, before digging in to Chiloé’s speciality: the hearty fish stew (curranto) which is buried beneath rhubarb leaves as it cooks on smouldering rocks.

You’ll now have a private transfer between Chiloé Island and Puerto Varas, approximately two hours long, and when you arrive you’ll pick up a hire car to explore the lakes. We’ve chosen another ‘Grand Design’ as your home for two nights: the striking Arrebol hotel which sits on the South East border of Llanquihue Lake amidst dense pine forest. Stock up on some of the scrumptious patisseries before hopping in your hire-car and soaking up some of the most stunning scenery that the lakes have to offer. Must-photograph spots include the magnificent Petrohue Falls, and the uber-photogenic Osorno volcano.

It’s a full day’s drive (300km) from Puerto Varas to Pucon, but along the way you’ll have absolutely stunning views of the lakes, and stop off at picturesque Swiss-style villages. Your home for three nights, Antumalal, is a fabulous modernist lodge: perched above Lake Villarricca, and with the snow-capped volcano behind. Use it as your base to take advantage of Pucon’s many adventure sports, or enjoy a chilled-out day of fly-fishing and walks through ancient pine forests.  Best way to top it off? Snuggling up in front of the fire with a classic Pisco Sour.

Having dropped off your hire-car at Temuco airport, 100km from Pucon, you’ll have a two hour flight to the quirky harbour town of Valparaiso. Zero Valparaiso (a gorgeous little boutique hotel) is much like the colourful artsy haunts that surround it: high up on the hill, with bracing views over the Pacific. Head out to explore Valpo’s cobbled streets, and watch the fishermen trawl in their catch, before hunkering down with yet more bowfuls of steaming sea-food, and wine from the nearby wineries. It’s also well worth hopping on the town’s famous funicular railways – not only for the views over the Pacific – but to see the house of Valpo’s most famous artist resident, Pablo Neruda.