Visalam

Housed in the former mansion of a Chettiar merchant, when the property passed to Visalam’s owners they decided to retouch rather than renovate it, and retain its historic character. That attitude extends to cultural touches around the hotel, like rangoli - the traditional scattering of coloured rice and powder into beautiful artworks - along the hotel’s corridors each morning.

The ornate woodwork and Art Deco grilles of the original mansion remain, as does the beautiful Italian marble, and the result is 15 beautiful heritage rooms with a historic atmosphere. The rooms feature local, handmade dark wood furniture, exposed wooden beams in the ceilings, handpainted tiles and egg-whitened walls, with the overall décor being a combination of south Indian and colonial styles.

Chettinad cuisine is renowned in India for its rich and complex flavours, characterised by the combination of classic Indian ingredients with Southeast Asian spices such as star anise - the result is one of the most distinctive and aromatic cuisines in India. Food is served in a variety of locations, including the beautiful dining hall, where you sit at long, banquet-style tables; the Grill restaurant, where you can dine semi-al fresco in an open-sided wooden building; and the Poolside Café, where local snacks are served up in an informal environment. Chettinad thalis - southern Indian platters - are distinctive for their use of game birds like quail alongside a rich assortment of seafood.

There is a beautiful outdoor swimming pool, and the restaurant’s kitchens offer a range of culinary classes and programmes - some of them spanning several days - which will help you get to grips with Chettinad’s rich cooking traditions. Chettinad is also famed for the extravagant saris worn by its women, and classes are available to teach you how to wear a sari or a dhoti, the traditional men’s garment.

The hotel has a traditional bullock cart which is used to transport guests on a historic tour through Chettinad’s cultural attractions. These include more of the mansions in the style of the hotel, built as the homes of Chettinad’s wealthy merchants, and impressive temples at Mathur, Iranikovil, Vairavanpatti and Pillaiyarpatti. There is also a rare temple to Saraswati, the Indian goddess of knowledge, learning and the arts. Many of Chettinad’s wealthy residents were patrons of the arts, and invested in local handicraft traditions - head to Karaikudi antique market to pick up a one-of-a-kind souvenir.