Pole Pole

In the marine park on the Southern tip of Mafia Island.

The seven cottages here are unfussy and unpretentious, with thatched roofs, cool, shady bedrooms and ensuite bathrooms. The sea breezes blow gently through the room, and the occasional clatter on the roof is usually the sound of a passing monkey.

Pole Pole’s had a long line of Italian managers, so the food has a distinct Mediterranean flair. It’s not all pasta though - there’s a real emphasis on using local ingredients, and the weekly Swahili night will give you the chance to enjoy some more African flavours. 

There’s a swimming pool at the lodge, a massage hut overlooking the beach, and a small selection of games and books.

This is one of the most peaceful spots we’ve visited in Africa, and it was as much as we could do to walk from the massage table to the lunch table, and from there to a shady spot beneath a palm tree. However, if you really must be active, the diving and snorkelling here are excellent. While people don’t really travel to Mafia for the beaches, we loved taking a picnic out to one of the lovely white sandbanks, and Mafia itself is so utterly charming, we’d definitely recommend taking a dhow across to Chole Island, or having a sedate potter amongst the villages.